A rare set consisting of a banyan and an embroidered Chinese - Lot 68

A rare set consisting of a banyan and an embroidered Chinese satin house jacket from the wardrobe of a wealthy Lyon bourgeois, circa 1760, Imperial yellow satin featuring a gold thread in the warp of the selvedge; embroidery in vivid polychrome, primarily in running stitch and knot stitch using mouliné thread, decorated with an openwork pattern of roses, peonies, carnations, imaginary flowers, sinuous leaves, holly leaves, and red berries. Men’s banyan or dressing gown with a stand-up collar, fastened with a single button, long sleeves with large cuffs, and featuring two slit pockets. Lined in green taffeta (in good condition, vibrant colors, some signs of wear). Long-sleeved peplum jacket with buttoned cuffs, featuring two flap pockets; the upper back is undecorated; the green taffeta lining has been almost entirely removed (replaced small-hole buttons and a small stain on the back; minor wear on the satin front). Shoulder width approximately 34.3 cm. In the 18th century, these exotic-looking indoor garments were rare, intended for a clientele eager to display their distinction and wealth within the family circle, which included close friends. Men wore them with a matching cap that replaced the wig worn outdoors during the day. They could be made of Indian calico, but it is understandable that this prominent Lyonnais—likely a well-known actor at the Fabrique—could not have chosen this fabric. There are also examples made from plain and patterned silks; embroidered silks, on the other hand, are much rarer and more expensive. The satin is Chinese, likely transported by ships of the East India Company; the design is similar to that of silks embroidered or painted in China during the same period and intended for the European market. It may have been embroidered in France based on these models, much like certain painted silks that a Lyon-based merchant-manufacturer produced in large quantities beginning in the 1740s to meet demand. Provenance: Preserved in Lyon by the descendants of a patrician family. In the 18th century, this family was connected to the entire Lyon bourgeoisie of the highest standing. Several of its members, who held important positions in the silk trade within the Grande Fabrique, may have commissioned this flamboyant ensemble. Among them, Joseph Marie Guérin (1738–1795)—originally from Saint-Chamond but conducting business in Lyon—who worked for the silk trading house Veuve Guérin et Fils, could be a serious contender. Ennobled in 1753, he served as a deputy for the Rhône-et-Loire department in the Estates-General and later became mayor of Saint-Chamond in 1792.